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Captain's Log

July 29, 2007

Hong Kong

After a long night of maneuvering around miles-long strings of densely grouped fishing vessels, we arrived early the next morning at the southeast approaches to Hong Kong. The ship traffic both in and out of Hong Kong harbor was very dense, but after some wrangling and checking in with vessel traffic, we worked our way into line up the East Lamma channel. I won’t even try to describe the density and variety of vessel and boat traffic, for it defies rational description. Suffice it to say, that one must be extremely vigilant for boats of every kind crossing right in front of you without any regards to the official traffic lanes established for safety in traffic flow.

We picked up a pilot off of Round Island and proceeded to the assigned mooring buoy A72, located about 2 miles NNW of Green Island. As we rounded Green Island to make our approach to the buoy, we made up one tug on the port bow to help keep our bow properly aligned with the buoy as we backed the ship to a stop. When you back the engines with a single right-hand screw (propeller), the bow will shear to starboard due to a side thrust on the propeller itself.

As we made our way towards the buoy, we had to lower the chain to the water out through the bullnose. Before there was enough chain weight outside that chock sufficient to pay itself out from windlass power, the crew had to initially get some chain out the bullnose manually. In this picture, the cadets are teaming up like railroad builders to heft the chain up the deck and out the bullnose and down to just above the water.

While we are making up to the buoy, the tug assists us in keeping our bow’s stem over the buoy.

Once we get close to the buoy and stopped dead in the water, we run the eye of a hawser out the same bullnose as the chain lead. Then a line boat containing the Chinese mooring crew picks up the hawser end and runs it over to the buoy and temporarily shackles it to the buoy.

Once the hawser is made fast to the buoy, we use one of our winches and haul in on the hawser to warp the bow towards the buoy. 

We continue heaving until the bow has been pulled over the buoy and the chain is dangling directly above it. Once we are in that position, the mooring crew, from the line boat, jump onto the buoy and shackle our chain to the large ring in the center of the buoy.

After that, we slacken the mooring hawser so that the chain takes the strain of the ship. We power down some additional chain from the windlass until the chain lead to the buoy is about 45 degrees. Finally, we un-shackle the mooring hawser from the buoy, pass the eye through the securing ring that the chain is connected to and bring the eye of the hawser back to the ship and secure it. That way, we have a “slip” loop that we can use to warp us back to the buoy when we depart and then “slip” our own line by letting the eye go and heaving on the other end of it until its aboard. 

Once the vessel was securely moored, we began the import routine. In order to get the crew to and from shore, we hire the use of a bresting barge to lie alongside as a platform to land our accommodation ladder on and to transit to and from the shore launch (recall the Captain’s Log about the roller saga several days ago). We also hire a 60 passenger shore shuttle to run between the ship and Hong Kong’s Fenwick Pier.

 Hong Kong is a very unique and beautiful city as captured in this picture.

One of the primary reasons for calling at Hong Kong this year was to purchase fuel where prices are some of the lowest in the world. We bought $1 million dollars of Marine Gas Oil (MGO). As we finished making fast to the buoy, the fuel barges were already coming alongside. In eight hours, we took on 480,000 gallons of fuel, or a little over 1,500 metric tons.

Coincidental to our port visit, a U.S. Navy strike task group also made port in Hong Kong at the same time. The aircraft carrier USS JOHN STENNIS, and five of her escorting warships, all heading home to the U.S. west coast after a seven-month deployment to the Arabian Sea. They were moored throughout the harbor, some on buoys very near to the GOLDEN BEAR. As you would expect, the carrier was anchored out in the extreme western anchorage far from the city.

There was also the cruiser USS ANTIETAM

and the guided-missile destroyers USS O’KANE and USS PREBLE, both moored very near to us. Naturally, having the influx of 7,000 or so navy sailors ashore at the same time drove the prices up on most goods and services in Hong Kong and Kowloon.

On Sunday evening, the exclusive and private American Club graciously hosted the officers from all of the U.S. Navy vessels in the port and the GOLDEN BEAR. It was a nice reception and we had the opportunity to meet many of our fellow mariners and country’s warriors. Several of our MMR cadets attended with us to give them the chance to meet Naval officers on deployment. The strike force commanding admiral, along with all of the vessel captains (including us), presented ship plaques to the American Club president.

The sliders and rollers they served were the best I’ve had anywhere in a long time.

In addition to the fuel, we also purchased fresh stores of produce, fruit and dairy products for the second half of cruise. So, with a full load of fuel, groceries and the anticipation of heading back eastward (Hong Kong being the furthest point west this cruise), we will set sail tomorrow morning and head back out into the South China Sea and northeast towards Niigata Japan.

Captain

 

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